| Traditional or "trad" routes are the ones where you place your gear into cracks in the roock, these include expanding (cams) or passive (usually tapered nuts or hexagons), and slinging trees or boulders or horns. It may still have bolted belays.
A route with all bolts is a called a Sport route, and is usually on a face that does not have the cracks to be able to climb it trad.
A mixed route is a bit of both, but bolts should still only be placed where there is no other form or protection available.
Drilling is a last resort if you are stuck for a way down, or if you are establishing a new route.
Many climbers begin leading with sport routes because it requires less gear and is less scary than trad. |